RoseyTimes

Decided to do all of this at once - add the airhorn, driving lights on the existing lightbar, and put a one button
garage door opener. Put all this through a custom switch box on the handlebar.

And also ordered Crashbar Chaps and Tank Bib from ClassicChaps. Jeff has quality products and quick
turnaround. Check his stuff out at

So all that was left was to find a suitable switch housing for both the driving lights and garage door
opener. I checked over Gadget's page (where do you think I learned about wiring in a garage door opener
and wiring in headlights???)

First thing I did was to create a schematic of what I was intending to do. This
continued to change as I worked through the project, but the fundimentals
remained the same. It also kept me sane as I wired, rewired, re-rewired, as the
design changed.

As I worked the design, and continued to fine tune the components based on what
I could find at auto parts stores, Iron Pony, and Radio Shack, I deciced to put on
the chaps and tank bib. Pretty sharp and they really make a difference. I only
took a short ride around the block before I started tearing into the electronics.

So the first item to wire is to run a new power line. Right or wrong, I opted to run a single new power line
from the battery, under the gas tank, and then spliced two new leads; one for the horn, one for the driving
lights. You will see I used a pretty heavy guage wire from the battery. I installed a micro inline blade fuse
holder with cover. Because I ziptied the wire under the gas tank, I thought it best to put disconnects inline
as well-both at the battery side and at the front of the tank. Yes, the more connections, the more possible
breaks - but I thought it would be worth it. In this picture, you will see the tank bib too!

Now to the Airhorn. I opted to use the Stebel Nautilus Compact Dual-Tone 12-Volt Air Horn which blows
out 139 dB at the horns. No more "Beep Beep" for me! I ordered it from California Sport Touring. Within
one hour, I had an email confirming the order, and a second one indicating that it had been shipped! Best
price I found too.

I was able to re-use the OEM horn mounting bracket by flipping it around. I mounted the airhorn to it with
the vendor provided bolt. But it was a little long, and I replaced it with same size, but shorter bolt.

I needed to figure out where I was going to mount the relay (ALWAYS use a relay - or plan on replacing
your entire horn switch assembly!). I also needed to find a good place to run several solid ground leads. So
I fashioned a little bracket, and installed on the fan shroud bracket using the OEM bolt - it was plenty
long. So now, I had a protected, solid place to mount the relay AND a good solid ground.

Now to wiring up the new Driving Lights. I went down to Wally-World and bought a set of Platinum
Burners Series made by Optronics. 55 Watt Halogens should add a little visibility as I ride down the road.
Using P-Clamps (with rubber inserts to protect the chrome light bar), I mounted them inverted to make the
largest light triangle possible.

As the schematic shows, I wired the new driving lights in through new power. But I did not want to
accidently leave them on while the bike was shut down. So, with a great deal of support and
encouragement from the Vulcan group, I spliced into the headlight so that I could tap into the power to
determine when the headlight was on. I ran this to a relay which ensured the driving lights were off when
there was not power to headlight, but on when when the headlight was on.

In addition, I wanted the option to turn the driving lights off if nescessary; going into campgrounds late at
night, riding is state where driving lights must only be operated with low-beams (or was that
High-beams?), etc. So I wired in a toggle switch (with indicator light) into the circuit coming from the
headlight tap-in.

I did not like any of the ideas for various reasons. One of the biggest is that I wanted big switches that
would be easy to hit with my gloves on - even heavy cold weather gloves. So I decided that instead of
hiding them, I would feature them by finding a housing that would blend in with the rest of the bike's
design. I found a generic chrome marker light housing, gutted it, drilled a few holes and made a faceplate
for it. Then mounted it on the handlebars. It matches the general design of the tach, and I think looks
pretty good